By Nate Tabak
Mother Teresa Boulevard isn’t known for its compelling eating and drinking options. Prishtina’s pedestrians’-only heart is the place to grab a table, enjoy the sun, and perhaps do a bit of people watching.
But as I sat tableside in the shadow of the Swiss Diamond hotel, I was fixated on the Negroni cocktail that was among the best I’ve had in this city. The simple mix of Campari, gin and sweet vermouth is well within the means of nearly every bar’s inventory, but no one ever seems to get it right – or get it at all.
This being the Iliria Terrace, the luxury hotel’s most downmarket eating and drinking venue, the cocktail did come with a price: the 6 euro and change. Most drinks range from 3 to 4 euro in bars. Consequently, I had just one.
During my Sunday afternoon cocktail, the food options also caught my attention, especially the Swiss Diamond Sandwich, and its promise of veal and peanut butter. At many places in Prishtina such a combination might frighten me. But for all its lack of affordability — this sandwich coming in at a whopping 4 euro — the hotel’s kitchen knows how to prepare good food.
The sandwich bearing the hotel’s name was no exception. The combination of thinly sliced steak and peanut butter evoked Thai satay. Fresh tomatoes, greens and corn helped offset the richness. I wasn’t thrilled with the high bread to filling ratio, but the sesame seed roll was certainly good. The french fries served on the side, however, nearly stole the show. They were thick and clearly twice fried, as they’re supposed to be but rarely are. The friend who joined me for lunch was pleasantly surprised with her tomato and mozzarella sandwich and its healthy application of pesto, despite being inherently annoyed with having a meal at such a hoity toity place.
With two sandwiches and two Coke Zeros (marked up to 1.50 euro apiece), we escaped the Iliria Terrace for 10.50 euro. That’s a lot to spend on lunch in Prishtina, especially for such a basic order. Therein lies the dilemma with eating at Swiss Diamond – especially with the 20 euro Sunday brunch and dinners that are among the priciest the city. The food is really good, but it’s not clear that it’s worth it.
On a subsequent visit I faced the similar conflict when i ordered the tabouleh salad. It was bursting with fresh herbs, and could certainly hold its own in the Middle East. But the 4.40 euro bought a portion that would have been fine as a side dish.
Iliria Terrace, like the hotel’s main restaurant, Restaurant Iliria, and the hotel as whole, is selling an escape. The escape is one of luxury and proper execution that is lacking across the service industry in Kosovo. All of this comes at a price – and that’s not for everyone.
16 August 2014 - 14:43
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